The drinks lean playful but precise. The standout is the Monkey Sling, first presented with an ice cube sculpted into a finely detailed primate before a mysterious concoction is poured over it. Creamy, acidic, and surprisingly balanced, it’s as memorable as it is drinkable.
The food is refreshingly uncomplicated. I began with Padron peppers with teriyaki mayo, a restrained opener that set the tone. The menu comfortably oscillates between Polish classic; like beef tartare with smoked mayo, shallot, pickled mushrooms, Jerusalem artichoke, and lovage, and more adventurous offerings, such as roasted cauliflower with labneh, “Bursztyn” cheese, lemon panko, pomegranate, and chili.
Watching chef Marcin Molik and his team work behind the counter that evening was its own quiet pleasure. But the most memorable dish was the Thai basil chicken with egg, herbs, and Thai basil (also available with tofu). Served with perfectly textured fluffy white rice, it was an exercise in balance and restraint; culinary clarity at its best.
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