Laidback luxury is the name of the game at hot new 80-room hotel opening Collegio alle Querce and resident restaurant La Gamella in the Florence hills.
Our evening begins with a tour of the ultra-spacious and immaculately appointed suites complete with Duomo views and artworks from Analjit Singh, the Indian owner’s personal collection.
After peering into the chapel and theatre, both blank canvases available for event rentals, it’s time for a chic drink at Bar Bertelli, the library-like vibe inspired by the notable academics who studied here back when the sprawling property was a boarding school. I opt for the Mach 5, whose first sip draws out the green coffee, second taste fennel, while a gin core provides the steely backbone. But tonight we’re here for La Gamella, which strives to serve local seasonal fare with just the right elevation for the savvy clientele at Auberge Resorts’ latest portfolio addition.
Talented chef Nicola Zamperetti welcomes us to our table, a round cocoon of soft pinks and greens in the capacious dining room surrounded by vast arched windows. A clear focus has been placed on relegating small-portion fine dining and encouraging proper eating at this nevertheless stylish restaurant. A tempting selection of antipasti includes fried pappa al pomodoro delights, polenta topped with creamed lentils and a take on Tuscan chicken liver crostini: every morsel is delicious. Next comes a stunning tuna tartare, destined to be a summer favourite when temperatures soar, and a refreshing ombrina fish accented with ginger and citrus fruits. Meanwhile, spring shines through in a robust broad bean and pea risotto, referring to the chef’s Venetian roots, and the plin pasta served with truffle and asparagus.
All these dishes are setting the scene for La Gemella’s signature dish: a hunter’s chicken of exceptional depth that I’d happily trek back up the hill from Le Cure to savour. “My dream was to find recipes that I’d eat at restaurants,” the chef explains, as we feast on the Fracassi poultry, glazed shallots and moreish potatoes. He returns to our table one last time, carrying a saucepan full of tiramisu. Light as air, it’s the perfect finish to a relaxed dinner.
The post La Gamella at Collegio alle Querce: laidback luxury appeared first on The Florentine.
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